Sunday, September 29, 2013

Beauty Report: Metallic Mania Continues For Spring 2014


Draped, pleated, folded, or molded—gilded accents have emerged as one of the season’s most powerful trends over the past three weeks. And with good reason: The universal appeal of a gold-etched party dress or platform sandal is hard to refute, and from a look at the beauty on the spring runways, a swipe of pure metallic pigment or glittering, decorative hair piece has a similarly addictive quality. 

It all started at Jason Wu earlier this month, where makeup artist Diane Kendal used a fine rose gold powder on eyes to complement hairstylist Odile Gilbert’s slicked-back ponytails. “It looks tough,” Gilbert said of the simple hairstyle, which was accessorized with narrow rose or yellow gold Sylvain Le Hen barrettes.

A few days later, strands cinched with gold were spotted at Donna Karan, courtesy of Eugene Souleiman’s gilded pins, which were slipped into center panels of the models’ long, straight hair while, later that week in London, Sam McKnight translated the linear contours of Marios Schwab’s collection into a low-laying style that featured flat, criss-crossed sections of hair secured at the nape of models’ necks with a rose gold clasp.

In Milan, Pat McGrath went for high-glamour, high-impact metallics on the eyes at Gucci, where she blended layers of gold and copper pigment across lids and underneath lower lash lines to pick up the same colors used in Frida Giannini’s athletic-inspired fabrics. By the time the trend reached Paris, as is often the case, its place had been solidified: On Wednesday, at Dries Van Noten’s metal-heavy collection (which was shown before a towering, gilded set installation), McKnight painted models’ deep side parts with a thin rimming of gold leaf while Peter Philips glued bits of golden thread along the eyelashes to give the makeup a “subtle, almost poetic” feel. Rounding out the spring offerings were the pots of creamy gold pigment McGrath had on heavy rotation backstage at Christian Dior, using not one, but three variations for both brows and lids. 

If a clear sign was needed that the gold rush shows no sign of slowing down, however, one need only look to the bustling confines of Colette on the Rue Saint-Honoré this Saturday afternoon. There, more than a few fashion enthusiasts in search of those Sylvain Le Hen hair pins (which hail from the City of Light) came up empty-handed. The slim rose gold version of the cult clips were already out of stock.

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